Bogotá is a city of contrast, as many have been quoted as saying. There is old, new, fast, slow and, like many other South American countries, extreme diversity. It is one of my favorite cities on the continent, among Cartagena, Lima, and, of course, Buenos Aires.
As I had just gotten back from a quick turn-around work trip to Dallas the week before leaving for Colombia, I decided to give myself a break. Instead of running off to explore a new city on the weekends, I spent my free time wandering about Bogotá - trying new restaurants, popping into local boutiques and checking out the local art in the famous Usaquén market.
See below for some of my favorite spots to eat, drink, sightsee and shop in the city. I am going to try this post without photos, as I know the food photos get redundant.
Eats...
Harry Sasson
This restaurant is the namesake of one of the most famous chefs in not only Colombia, but all of Latin America. This particular establishment is ranked #22 on the 2013 list of the 50 best restaurants in Latin America, and for good reason (The World's 50 Best - Latin America).
The restaurant is set inside of a remodeled mansion in El Retiro (Zona T), featuring both tables in the classically styled dining room or in the modern bar. For starters, try the octopus, caprese salad, salmon carpaccio or anything from their mozzarella bar. For your main course, dive into the perfectly cooked duck, rich pasta, savory scallops or delicious ribs. And make sure to save room for the banano - layers of banana cream and nutella between flaky pastry.
Club Colombia
Another restaurant by Mr. Sasson, however, this one is focused on traditional Colombian fare rather than modern, global dishes. Like Harry Sasson, Club Colombia is also situated in a remodeled mansion. However, there is nothing modern about this place, unless you count the enclosed patio - perfect for sipping mimosas while brunching on their yummy buffet options and taking in the sunlight. Do not miss the delicious rices, colorful fruits, cheesy arepas or the beef with caramelized onion all atop a biscuit.
Dinner is a completely different experience - think comfort food. You must start with the "maduro al horno con queso y jalea de guayaba" - ripe plantain topped with creamy, white cheese and guava gelatin, baked in an oven to let all of the flavors mesh together perfectly.
If you can't make it to Medellín but want to eat like you have, try the "cazuelita de frijoles de Medellín" - a yummy casserole with, you guessed it, beans, along with root vegetables, plantains and beef, all topped with fresh avocado. You might want to make sure someone else at the table orders the "ajiaco bogotano con todos sus garnituras" - a very traditional stew made with different types of potatoes, chicken or other meat, onion, garlic, a slew of other spices, and - again, topped with that fresh avocado.
La Mar
While the original outpost is in Lima, I could not help but visit the Bogotá location. This is one of my favorite cebicherias in Lima and the Colombian locale did not disappoint.
Taste any of the ceviches on the menu and, if you really want to delight your tastebuds, accompany them with an order of "tacu tacu super la mar" - a mixture of beans and rice fried and then topped with beef and a mixture of seafood. Top it all off with a pisco sour or chilcano and call it one of the best meals of your life.
Other notable restaurants include:
Andres Carne de Res (for a fun night go to the one in the city called "DC" for a super fun night make the trek to the campo and go to the location in Chia… whatever you do, beware of the aguardiente)
Gaira (owned by Carlos Vives, the famous Colombian artist, come here if you want to listen to local, live music but make sure to make reservations for a table with a stage view)
Drinks...
Bogotá Beer Company
While I partook in most of my cocktail drinking at the fabulous restaurants listed above (and not in the many rooftop bars I saw), the best watering hole for local beer is at BBC. There is nothing special about the pub-like ambiance or the mediocre food, but the award-winning beer is delicious and fairly inexpensive. Tell me your favorite Bogotá bars for next time I go, por favor.
Sights and Shopping…
If there is one museum to see while in the city, take a few hours to explore Museo Botero. Fernando Botero donated 123 pieces of his work to the Colombia's Central Bank, which are housed in a wonderful mansion in downtown Bogotá. Other works in the museum include pieces by Dalí, Picasso, Renoir, Matisse, Monet, Degas, Chagall and others.
Spend the rest day exploring the beautiful downtown area of La Candelaria.
Usaquén
To me, this is the best market in all of the city. You can find mouthwatering scented soaps and candles, delicious food and fun, inspiring art. Make a day out of it and hit up La Mar, located just steps away from the market.
Yes, this is just a regular mall, like any you will find in your own hometowns. However, outside the mall you can find fabulous local boutiques, yummy restaurants and great people watching.
Outside of Bogotá…
